The Fat Lady is about to Sing

Our stay in Austria ends soon, with a flight from Salzburg
early Monday. Our arrival in Spokane will be late evening
so our motivation to get up to Sandpoint will war with our
need to stay in Spokane for a night's sleep.

We have continued to do bike rides. Yesterday Georg, Julie,
and I did a long ride featuring a 4000+ foot vertical climb, some
bike dragging & pushing when the terrain became unridable,
beautiful views etc. Tomorrow Eli and I are planning a
ride, weather permitting - as always.

Some random thoughts in the face of our imminent departure:

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Transportation:

Jessica will be taking driver's training here within a year
or two. As a prerequsite she must take 20 hours of first
aid - an interesting concept.

Drivers here must be insured. They do have a 14-day grace
period, but when that expires the Polizei are notified. The
Polizei then confiscates the automobile license plates of the offender.

Gas prices are not all that consistent throughout Europe.
Austria's are currently among the cheapest, perhaps 2 1/2
times the price in the USA. We saw one Hummer while here
(Italian license plates), but a number of the smaller SUV's.

My enthusiasm for driving in Europe is close to zero and
becomes more negative the further south I go (as the pace
becomes more frenzied). Of course, there are times and
destinations where the auto is the most efficient choice.
We get around quite well with bicycles, trains, buses, and
on foot. Mass transportation remains readily available,
although it is under assault by the increasingly popular
and affordable automobile. Nevertheless, for tourists
visiting Europe, the auto tends to become a cocoon,
isolating them from the culture they have traveled so far
to experience.

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Wisdom from the Ancient Geek:

A man who prefers tall blonds has a greater selection if
he's short.

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Water:

Rivers, streams, and lakes are much prized here. Waterfront , wherever possible, is made into a pleasant place to walk, bicycle, etc. Something like Sandpoint's proposed Sandcreek Byway (a.k.a. the City Beach Freeway) would not only not succeed, but would not even be contemplated.

Water in Austria is exceptionally clean with respect to sewage and farm runoff (I've not seen a 'feedlot' or large scale hog farm). The swimming lake in the town where we are staying is fed by the same source as the drinking water. It is continuously fed through the season.

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Forests

The forests here have been reestablished. Of course, to reestablish the original ecosystem is probably not possible. However, the forest is healthier and more diverse than 20 years ago.

The diverse animal population will likely be impossible to reestablish in any semblance of the original. Nevertheless, what remains is treasured and will receive attention.

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Americanization

Automobiles are becoming common/prevalent.

Coprporations have growing political influence here.

Processed food is becoming more common, but there is resistance.

American movies and music are readily available.

The Bush administration is widely considered as a catastrophe, but the american political system is believed to be broken anyway (because of corporate influence).

The american electorate is seen as ignorant of the world in general and naive about politics in particular. After all why would they be incensed about Clinton's activity with Ms. Lewinski and not about his inactivity with respect to the genocide in Rwanda (editorial comment).

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Pluses and minuses

We see pluses and minuses for life in Europe, just as we do for life in the USA. For us, home is the Northwest USA and we will be happy to get home despite the hospitality, generosity, and friendliness we have again experienced in Tirol.

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Richard
2004.07.23

Grossglockner Light

We six left by train with bikes for the one hour ride to Zell am See (Georg, Julie, Sophie, Jessica, Eli, and me). The plan was to ride the 14 km. to Fusch from Zell am See (a relatively flat ride), and then send Sophie (age 9) on by taxi as the rest of us rode up about 400 m. vertical (spread over 7km.) to the Ferleiten Wildpark where we would spend the night. We arrived at Fusch to find there were no taxis, so we all biked. Sophie got a bit of help here and there, but was very proud when we arrived at Ferleiten.

The Wildpark has ibex, multiple varieties of hirsch, gamsen, steinbock, owls, lynx, wolf, bear etc. Where possible, they are in somewhat natural habitat, but the caged owls are sad to see. They also have a simple amusement park. One can see the Tauern Range from here as well, but not the Grossglockner (Austria's highest peak) which is 'around the corner'.

The next morning Georg, Julie, Jessica, and I embarked on Grossglockner Light riding up 1267 m. vertical to Fuschertoerl. It averages about a 10% grade (all nicely paved and scenic), so it is neither easy nor extreme. This is traditionally called Grossglockner Light because we already did the first 400 m. vertical from Bruck-Fusch to Ferleiten the day before. Fuschertoerl is at 2407 m., but one can continue after that to Hochtor, dropping down about 200 m. and then rising again for about 300 m. This would have added 500 m. rise to the round trip. Since neither Jessica (age 16) nor I felt up to it, Fuschertoerl was just right. Otherwise, Georg and Julie would have forged onward. We hadn't remarked on it before we reached the top, but then Julie noted that she, Jessica, and I comprise 3 generations of the same family.

Meanwhile Eli and Sophie toured the Ferleiten Wildpark and took the bus back to Zell am See (literally Zell on the Lake) and waited at one of the beaches for us to make our way down by bike. We caught them before they left the Wildpark, but couldn't beat the bus to Zell am See. The Zeller See is a large (well, not Pend Oreille) lake which has several swimming areas with diving towers, floating docks, swimming pool, etc. We met Eli and Sophie there, arriving about 30 minutes behind. Zell am See at 755 m. is also a winter resort with excellent skiing nearby.

After swimming and lunch, we caught the train back to Kirchberg where Eli prepared Salmon (using, of course, Bob's sauce as marinade) for dinner. The rest of us took 3 showers apiece. We were exceptionally stinky, despite the swim at Zell am See. I heard they planned to close the beach for a few days.

Richard
2004.07.20

More Bike Rides

Two days ago Eli and I rode to St Johann in Tirol over a
somewhat hilly (but not mountainous) region. To start back
we needed a gelato; fortunately there was an excellent
Konditorei in St. Johann. On the way back we rode the
longer and hotter, but flatter route home via Kitzbuehel
where we stopped for lunch. It was about a 40 km. trip
total. The scenery featured the Wilder Kaiser on one side
and the Kitzbueheler Horn on the other.

Yesterday, Georg, Julie, and I rode to St. Johann over the
same route Eli and I took yesterday. Then we continued on
to Fieberbrunn and then into a long valley, called the
Pletzergraben, which had us slowly climb about 1000 m.
to a saddle on the shoulder of the Kitzbueheler Horn and
then down just a little on the other side to Laemmerbichlalm
where we had lunch. After lunch we rode down into
Kitzbuehel and then home, perhaps 55 km. for the total trip.

Another bike ride of interest involved none of us, but rather a group of perhaps 10 or so older women in this neighborhood, ranging in age from early 60's to early 70's. They loaded their bikes on the train to St. Johann. Then they biked the approximately 60 km. to the Salzburg Bahnhof where they loaded their bikes on the return train to home. They stopped here and there while biking, but did the train/bike rides all in one day. These weren't even women who normally bike for sport - the bike is for local transportation and grocery shopping (everyone has a bike). These Tiroleans are tough.

Richard
2004.07.18

Two Day Tour

With the incessant rain, Georg and Julie organized a two day
tour. 98.732% of Austria is scenic, but where does one go
when it's rainy?

Day 1:

We drove about 3 hours to Mauthausen, one of the WWII
concentration camps. Not as well known as, for example,
Dachau and Auschwitz; its story is equally grim. We toured
the remaining buildings, the museum replete with photos and artifacts, and the post war memorials erected by various nations. It was emotionally exhausting. The most disturbing thing for me was the methodical and 'scientific' nature of the genocide. The site was relatively crowded with visitors, now almost 60 years after its liberation by U.S. forces.

Night 1:

We stayed in Bad Ischl which is at the confluence of the
Trauen and Ischl rivers. It was the summer playground of
the Hapsburgs, as was most of the Salzkammergut, the lake
region around Salzburg. It was also the site of Franz
Lehar's villa, purchased via his success with the 'Merry
Widow'. We wandered about in the rain in this beautiful
small city. Imagining the Hapsburgs in their playground,
while fresh from the Mauthausen visit, was totally bizarre.

Day 2:

We drove to Werfen to visit the world famous (even though
you may not have heard of them) Ice Caves. After a very steep but short drive up from the valley floor, we parked the car in one of the few open spots in the parking lot at about 1000 m. elevation. We expected a short walk to the cave entrance, but walked a bit further than expected to find a gondola lift. Since we were with Tiroleans we rejected the lift and the six of us (age range 9 years to 63 years) walked up to the top of the lift and then the rest of the way to the mouth of the cave. Inside, the elevation of the tour reached just under 1800 m. So this 9 year old Tirolean girl had no problem marching up the rather steep 800 m. rise.

The cave features dramatic ice cliffs, steep ice slopes, and stalactites/stalagmites of ice forming beautiful otherworldly sculptures. The conditions are exactly right to form ice from water that leaks in from springs and melting snow. Our tour explored 1 kilometer of the cave. Another 41 kilometers are mapped, but not open to the public. The average of 3 or 4 people who wander away from their tour guide are usually left for the cave bears.

When we left I sighted and photograped a Gams. Others in our now dispersed group saw several more, with kids. Eli, Sophie, and Julie took the lift down. Jessica and Georg scampered down the steep switchbacks. The old guy walked down carefully.

Night 2:

We made it back to Kirchberg. The Winters, old friends of Georg and Julie's, had arrived from Burgenland with their wine delivery truck and stayed overnight. Eli and I headed to bed , lest we learn too much German.

Richard
2004.07.16

Some Bike Rides Stink

Yesterday I biked up to a man made lake supporting snow making capabilities for the Hahnenkamm. I then continued to the top of the Hahnenkamm on steeper terrain with a new, almost sandy trail surface, not yet packed down. It takes both strength and skill to ride this part of the route. As I walked pushing my bike up the steep, I asked those eternal questions: "why am I here?", "is there life after death?", and so on. But it was interesting to work my way up to the top of the Hahnenkamm downhill course. I'd have no problem skiing it slowly and carefully, but I am not a racer and cannot imagine flinging myself down this twisty, steep course attempting to go fast.

After reaching the starting hut of the downhill course, I continued up toward the top of the Fleckalmbahn on a road that was something I could ride. At about 1700 m. in elevation, the weather looked too weird so I headed back down passing both the upper and lower Fleckalms on the way. The lower Fleckalm provides food for winter skiers and summer hikers/bikers. In fact, this is one of the places Julie worked in her early days in Tirol, learning both recipes for regional specialties and the local dialect. She moved to Tirol in 1984, knowing no German - and certainly not the local dialect.

In Fall the dairy cattle are moved off the mountains to the valley, spending the winter mostly inside barns. The manure etc. is saved and stored until the next summer. Then it is then transported in tanks with wheels to its destination and sprayed on the crops as needed. The odor is evil, overpowering, and not featured in the tourist brochures. Encounters with this practice when biking are particularly unpleasant when biking extended uphills (you can only hold your breath so long). Fortunately, on this bike ride the encounter was on the descent. In particular, a leaky manure tank had preceded me on the paved portion (starting at the lower Fleckalm) leaving a liquid center stripe. It certainly kept me on my side of the road.

The weather remained quite weird during the Foehn with temparatures oscillating in the 28 to 30 celsius range and with gusty winds. Overnight it passed and an intense rain squall followed on its heels, cooling us back down. By mid morning the rains had ceased, but recurred intermittently throughout the remainder of the day.

It's time to visit the Konditorei.

Richard
2004.07.09

Hiking to Pengelstein

Yesterday we biked the 2 km. to the base of one of the lifts (the Fleckalmbahn) and rode in the gondola car up the 1000 m. rise. Then we hiked up and down through the ski area for about 1 1/2 hours until we reached Pengelstein, where several lifts converge on a restaurant, about 135 m. higher in elevation than the top of the Fleckalmbahn. We had a stout Tirolean lunch (Groestl - fried potatoes with bits of ham, sometimes onions, topped with a sunnyside egg - or two). Then we meandered back to the top of the Fleckalmbahn. Eli held my hand occasionally on the way back, which I thought rather romantic until I realized she was having me pull her up some of the steeper hills. When queried she said, "I can either digest my lunch, or hike, but not both." Romance does best if left unexamined.

The weather was sunny, but the Foehn (you can google on "Foehn wind") was moving in from the south totally disrupting current weather forecasts. But it gave us clear, if breezy, weather for this delightful hike. We could see the higher snow covered peaks to the south quite easily, despite the clouds above them.

The Kitzbuehel ski area is large, with about 90 lifts ranging from double chairs to a high speed lift with 8 person gondolas. There is also the Hornbahn, a tram in the style of Jackson Hole's. There may be a few tee bars left, but they have mostly been replaced over the last 12 years. The most famous ski run is the Hahnenkamm ("rooster's comb") downhill, a yearly staple in the winter's world cup tour.

The local farmers own the terrain and rent it to the ski lift company during the winter. In summer it is pasture, for dairy cattle mostly. They graze on the alpine vegetation, including the mountain flowers, and produce exceptional milk.

A nearby ski area (at Westendorf) evolved plans to connect their smaller area to Kitzbuehel, which would have resulted in a conglomeration of more than 100 lifts. However, they forgot to check with the farmers who owned the terrain. The farmers, in a fit of pique, squelched the idea (already on the ski area map). Locals are generally happy about this outcome because the connection would have destroyed some of the ski mountaineering/touring ('earn your turns') area. It would also have impinged on the Gaemse (chamoix) habitat.

The Gaemsen are quite shy of humans. In the summers they retreat into wilder country, as the farmers bring the cows back up to the high country and as hikers/bikers appear. We saw them up close one winter when we were hiking/sliding on Gaisberg well above the ski area. A herd can run down steep snow covered terrain as smoothly as flowing water, a spectacular sight.

Richard
2004.07.08

To Hieslegg with Eli

This morning Eli and I biked south, climbing toward Aschau along the main creek, crossing its various tributaries (all the rain must go somewhare). After passing Aschau we continued to climb slowly until we were about 450 meters above our start. We then left the valley floor and worked our way back north toward home along a mountain road (access to the higher pastures for the farmers), but still climbing another 200 meters before reaching the base of the Hieslegg chair lift, our highest point. The view along this upper road, as it snakes along hugging the mountain side, is spectacular looking down into the Aschau valley or across to nearby and distant peaks. We also passed many small waterfalls as the water makes its way down to the main creek.

This ride is a good workout for us wimps, but with only a couple of steep portions. The total rise of 650 meters is spread over maybe 17 .212 km.

Our usual luck held with rainfall commencing only when we were at our doorstep. Shortly thereafter the girls arrived home from school. This is their last school week and is mostly play time. Julie made lunch for the whole gang. Eli, Julie, and Jessica will drive to Kitzbuehel this afternoon for some non destructive shopping, to stop at a Konditorei (I would assume), and pick up a video.

Richard
2004.07.06

Current Routine

Now that we are in Tirol, on vacation, we have settled into a routine. Eli and I bike together every other day (weather permitting) trying to choose interesting terrain and scenery, an easy task. On the alternate days, Eli does a mountain hike while I do a manly (for an old person) bike ride, sometimes with Julie or even Georg. They wait patiently for me at various sites along the route. Actually I can almost keep up with Julie, as long as the ride keeps below my high end limit.

On my manly bike rides I choose a decent vertical target and head up the hill. As I get higher and slower, I also get stinkier and gather a swarm of curious flies. The bike rolls easily over the occasional cattle guards set into the road surface, providing the only immediate distinction between me and the average alpine cow.

Eli has continued with some art projects, one being an acrylic for Georg on his birthday. We also find our way to the local Konditorei which is a real treasure in this alpine village. It would be considered excellent in a larger city - only fresh pure ingredients plus skill.

Tonight is a birthday celebration for Georg, with many friends coming over. Julie and her teenage helpers are working hard on the meal. The family celebration was earlier in the week. Today, I was sent to the yard to wash bicycles (biking amongst the dairy cows has its price).

Le Tour de France has just begun; I must go.

Richard
2004.07.03

Art with Joze Ciuha

I am back from my one week art course in southern Austria. I was near the Slovenian and Italian border in a beautiful open valley with distant mountains. It is known as the lake region of Austria. There is a main bike route through the valley floor so I was able to bike in between events.

The class was taught by Joze Ciuha and he really is worth a bio look on the internet. He had me under his magic spell the minute I met him. He is 80 years old and I think well known in the international art community. The first day of class, I stood there with a large piece of blank 2 x3 ft. paper and 10 more blanks waiting , many large containers of acrylic paint and 3 brushes and felt apprehensive. He walked up to me and said in a heavy accent…Eli, pretend you are 8 years old and just start painting. Well that didn´t seem too hard. Then he would come around and say …are you having fun? Or he would say…are you still having fun…or…always smiling (that´s because I was under his spell) or…Eli, this is a magic brush…and I BELIEVED! Heck, I would have followed him anywhere.

We are at Julie´s until July 27. Dick has me in training for biking. Every other day he finds places that will challenge me enough but not too much that I start crying and calling him names. Then on the other days, he takes real men rides with Julie and/or Georg and I take wimpy walks on the nearby trails.

All is well … but as Dorothy says in the Wizard of Oz…there is no place like home and sometimes I wish I could click my ruby red shoes and make it happen but then once there with all the repairs and gardening, I would wish I was somewhere else again…so-o-o-o-be here now!

Eli
2004.07.01