Nanaimo July 2022
In the prior post I mentioned how kayaking on Lake Pend Oreille in spring is a highlight of my paddling season. This current post mentions another highlight of my season, a kayaking trip to Vancouver Island - in particular, the Nanaimo area. Typically we visit Vancouver Island for some kayaking, often twice a season - lately just one trip and that to the Nanaimo area.
After arriving in Nanaimo on July 8 we inflicted our presence on a dear couple who live on a cliff over the tumultuous Nanaimo River. Then on July 10 and 11, I took four kayak sessions (~3 hours each session) from Mike Gilbert, owner and operator of the BC Kayak Centre, who was on his way back to Vancouver after a trip in the Deer Group. I'll not describe the course in any detail, but will say that Mike is a truly splendid instructor who shows flexibility while remaining on task. The sessions were all held on the bay off Elliot Park at the south end of a peninsula east of Ladysmith.
The next 3 days we kayaked at three different locations. We had a core group of four and were joined by other folks, depending on the day. Our day trips launched from:
- Nanaimo's Brechin Boat Ramp
- Fisherman's Wharf in Ladysmith
- Cedar by the Sea
On Tuesday, from the Brechin Boat Ramp, we stayed within the shelter of Newcastle and Protection Islands, with the winds being a bit snotty on the outside. There were 6 of us, all familiar friends with whom we had kayaked before. This area is relatively congested being the Nanaimo waterfront, but only with slowish boats, captained by those used to the presence of kayaks. We did not go near the Departure Bay ferry at the north end of the Newcastle channel nor the Gabriola ferry, south of Protection Island.
The trip captain hypnotizing his Greenland paddle.
The channel between Newcastle Island and Nanaimo is quite narrow, but certainly allows two boats to pass easily. The island is a provincial park and is known as Saysutshun by the Snuneymuxw. It is accessible only by boat, but has a foot passenger ferry. The channel is mostly marinas on the Nanaimo side, but wild on the Newcastle side. We gathered just off the Brechin Boat Ramp, looked up and down the channel, then scurried across to the Newcastle side as a group when the channel was clear - quite similar to how a child learns to cross a busy street. The tide was quite low so we saw raccoons with their pups scavenging for breakfast along Newcastle.
Once through the channel the water opens into a bay with Newcastle and Protection Islands on the east and Nanaimo on the west. The tide was low enough so that a tombolo joined the two islands. The bay was full of many moored sailboats. Unlike Newcastle, Protection Island has many houses and even the Dinghy Dock restaurant (also served by the Newcastle foot ferry). I believe the island sewer and electrical systems are connected to Nanaimo.
On Wednesday we launched from Fisherman's Wharf, paddled to Elliot Park for lunch, then returned. The tide was very low, lowest in perhaps 20 years. We attempted to keep east of the Dunsmuir Islands, and the slower paddlers (like me) had to dismount and walk through the shallows for a short stretch. This time the core four of us were joined by an astrophysicist. He was supposedly relatively new to kayaking, but was quite competent and strong, albeit starry eyed.
Ape Man discovers a kayak.
On Thursday we launched from Cedar by the Sea (just south of Dodd Narrows), then worked our way south down De Courcy Island, and had lunch at the well protected Pirates Cove before heading back. [Note: You may have heard of the infamous Brother XII, the English mystic who established his sect on this island.] It was a bit of work to reach Pirates Cove, but the wind and seas were much more favourable on our return. The core four of us were joined by a couple neither I nor Eli knew beforehand.
Who built this wall?
Kayaks wait patiently while we have lunch.
On our three day trips we saw raccoons, seals, herons, eagles, turkey vultures, oyster catchers, etc. - however no whales, nor sea lions. It was a great outing with quite nice weather. Afternoon temperatures did not exceed 75 Fahrenheit. Being with friends was super. We also had wondrous evenings, which you need not hear about.
