Fronleichnam Weekend

Our recent four day weekend began with Fronleichnam (Corpus Christi), a religious holiday observed throughout Austria as an official state holiday, occurring always on a Thursday - just like Christi Himmelfahrt (Ascension Thursday). In Kirchberg, Fronleichnam coincides with another celebration marking the decision of the Swedes (during the Thirty Years War) to turn aside from invading the valley. On that historic day the locals had mustered every man, woman, child, and farm animal to comprise what looked from a distance like a large army. Thus confronted, the Swedes went elsewhere and, if recollection serves, that was Minnesota (Karen Seashore can correct this if needed).

Julie and I biked to Hieslegg in the morning, before the heat of the day. It was a delightful ride and fit well into my summer plan to get in biking shape, starting with relatively easy rides. The activities throughout the rest of the day firmly countered those aspirations, but such is life.

Eli took photos of the two local celebrations - one in the morning at the church and the parade in the afternoon. Both events featured traditional garb of various sorts. The parade had talented marching bands, priests from three local parishes (one carrying a small monstrance displaying the holy bread i.e. the 'transubstantiated' body of Christ), and plenty of horses ridden by the farmers, decked out in authentic finery. The horses were Haflingers (quite like Norway's Fjord horses) as well as the full size descendants of farm work horses - whose functions have been replaced by small, nimble tractors. On Friday, the municipal street cleaning machines were out and about - no coincidence.

The traditionally garbed participants in the festivities were of all ages, not just the oldsters, suggesting that the traditions are surviving into at least the next generation. It does draw tourists from the cities, so economics may ensure a longer term survival, perhaps with some loss of authenticity and spirit.

After the first installment of the parade (it went down valley and then returned), the extended-extended family gathered at Maria's for coffee and cakes. This draws in family from further than just the neighborhood. It is a family tradition started by Maria's mother Moide, now deceased. After her death her daughters, Maria and Mathilde, decided that the tradition must remain, and so it does.

Richard
2004.06.13